Written In Stone 5.11d
An intriguing line on a stunning wall. Written In Stone is the first line to breach the impressive and often eyed headwall to the left of the Prow. Different than it’s burly neighbors, the character of this route is generally technical face with a smattering of finger cracks and flakes. The initial 5.10 pitches get you warmed up for the increasingly difficult climbing capped by an exciting and atmospheric crux. The route is generally well protected, often with bolted cruxes.
From the top of the Apron, continue up the Buttress trail passing under the imposing Kashmir Wall. The first pitch lies immediately across the South Gulley just right of an obvious large cedar.
Pitch by Pitch:
1. Starts by climbing a stepped, left facing corner. A difficult mantle and face climbing past 2 bolts leads to the belay. 510c.
Scrambling and low fifth across the ledge and up to the base of pitch 2.
2. This pitch connects discontinuous finger cracks up the long buttress depositing you on Bonsai Ledge. 5.10c.
3. Layback and jam up the big flake. 5.10b.
4. Face climbing straight up past two bolts. Follow a long, easy traverse to more face climbing straight up to a short layback flake. 5.10c.
5. Move left and up an easy corner until you can traverse back right under a ledge. Climb the elegant twin dykes past 3 bolts. 5.11a.
6. Climb straight up a deceptively difficult, thin dihedral, passing small roof on the left. 5.11b.
7. Thought provoking face climbing past three bolts leads to a short crack, the crux moves left gaining the arete and a hand/fist crack to the belay. 5.11c.
8. Bouldery moves off the anchor lead to a testy fingers dihedral. Finish via an exposed hand traverse right to a wicked thin crack. 5.11d.
Single set of cams from #0.1 – #4 BD. 2x #0.3, #0.4. Small wires. Quickdraws. All belays are bolted.
Walk off second summit trail. Alternatively the route can be rappelled with one 70m rope. From the bottom of pitch 6 the rap line bypasses the traversing sections of the climb utilizing an intermediate anchor.